2013 in review: 25 March

In Belgium I visited the Grand Béguinage of Leuven a UNESCO World Heritage site that consists of buildings built in the 13th century.

My hosts informed me that the area is sometimes used as a setting for film production.

Le's travels: Japan

I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro with Le Huynh in August 2008. He travels the world, and shares images and experiences of the places he visits. This post is from his 2012 visit to Japan.

Dear friends, 

A well known consequence of our fast and connected modern world is the equally fast and furious rise of stress levels.  Back in the early 90’s, people began to notice an increasing number of incidents where someone has literally “dropped dead” from overwork!

Shuzenji Temple in autumn.

Suddenly, the last decade has seen a proliferation of 'urban' spas, all promising the ideal relaxation in response to the strong demand of near burnout customers.

Sumptuous meals with local fresh catch

     

These days, for city folks who are used to effective methodology towards clearly defined goals, ‘result-oriented’ spas have become popular in cities where people are forever pressed for time:  to get the maximum result with minimal effort... and may as well stave off ageing while at it!

Shuzenji Temple in autumn.

The antithesis of the modern-day spa is the traditional centuries old practice of the Japanese Bath also known as “Onsen” (meaning Hot springs).  Being a volcanic island, Japan has an abundant supply of natural hot water from volcanic springs. Since ancient times, these hot springs have been known to have healing power depending on their mineral composition.

  

During the Nara era (from 710 AD), many rest houses have been constructed by Buddhist monks in order to provide shelter for pilgrims. They have chosen wisely those locations near hot springs for bathing purposes

Onsen in front of the Ocean (and the stars at night)

and also for their healing power to the weary travelers. Overtime, these traditional Onsen inn (or Ryokan) have refined the experience with beautifully manicured surrounding garden, comfortable sleeping quarters, soothing massage, and exquisitely prepared meals using local fresh ingredients. 

The colours of autumn.

Like all finer things in life, going to a Japanese Onsen has become something of an artistic ritual. It is a conscious act of taking time out to breath and to leave behind the daily grind of hectic life. Only after thoroughly cleansing one’s body may one slowly enter the hot bath where the purification of one’s mind begins…  The contemplation of nature at an Onsen’s outdoor bath is the result of a Zen like meditative approach to bathing. It gives us a spiritual dimension to this most intimate act and a connection to the ancient mysticism of the East. It is truly a quintessential experience touching the very core of Japanese culture and tradition.

Le

Japan 2012

Related posts:

http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2013/04/les-travels-mexico.html

http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2012/05/kilimanjaro-club-member-le-huynh-native.html

A ride on the Kamanga ferry from Mwanza to Sengerema

For the first time yesterday, I took the. Kamanga ferry from Mwanza to Sengerema. Lake Victoria always provides some of the best scenery in northern Tanzania.

As I stood on the side enjoying the unfolding scenery that included a few rocky islets along the way, I quickly realized that Lake Victoria was also a gigantic refuse bin, all 68,800 square kilometres of it. Many passengers on the ferry threw litter into the lake, from food wrappers and food waste to empty plastic bottles.

Buses on the Kamanga ferry.

Every time I board a vessel I contemplate the likelihood it will sink and the prospects, mine particularly, of reaching the shore. On this occasion I even pre-planned the removal of my fake Timberland boots once I found myself in the water and how I would lie on my back and remain afloat and attempt to keep my mouth shut to prevent the Lake's water, which I suspect to be highly contaminated with the effluent generated by the city of Mwanza, from entering my mouth and causing me some unknown health risks.

The script reads much better than what may actually unfold when disaster strikes. I might be happy to drink my fill of contaminated lake water in exchange for reaching the shore.

The ferry takes about 25 minutes to reach its destination.

Le's travels: Morocco

Kilimanjaro Club member Le Huynh, a native of Vietnam, is a globetrotter and has traveled to the farthest corners of Earth. He normally sends reports of his travels, this time from the Morocco.

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Dear friends,        Although Istanbul has been often cited as a shining example of cross culture where "East meets West" has given amazingly diverse result, for a true example of antiquity melting pot, the Amazigh meaning "Free people or Freeman" in the North Western region of Africa, part of present day Morocco, has no equal.
        Perhaps a distant relative of the ancient Egyptians, they were joined by Mediterranean anglers and Saharan horse-breeders around 250 B.C., the Phoenicians around 800 B.C., then the East Africans around 500 B.C.  By the time the Romans arrived in the 4th century, unable to characterize this multi-cultural milieu, they simply casted these people as "Berbers" meaning barbarians, a typical Roman imperialistic reaction!
        For centuries, the Romans tried and failed to absorb this Freeman's land into their Empire. However, the arrival of Islam in the 7th century marked a new chapter of Berber history: many Berbers converted willingly to this new faith and in the process also gained access to the Arab overland trading routes that brought business their way... savvy people :-).         To better understand the Berber spirit, one can follow in the footsteps of the old caravanserai camel trade route into that most inhospitable region where these tough minds are forged:  the Sahara (from the Arabic word "Sahra" meaning "desert").
        From a geographical point of view, the Sahara is unique: sand dunes of such extent that even the mighty Romans never managed to cross. Those who dare to attempt the feat are constantly threatened by that most nightmarish of all deaths: slowly from thirst!!  Only the toughest and self-reliant mind can manage to survive and inhabit such a dangerous place. After all, Jesus of Nazareth went into the desert for 40 days to prove himself... and the Prophet Mohammed brought Islam message back out from the desert! [continues, below]

        Back in those days, a pound of Saharan salt was traded for an ounce of Saharan gold. It's easy to understand why Berber tribes zealously guarded their controls of the Saharan trade routes. Hélas, whenever there is gold, troubles are not far behind: foreign powers are forever looking for lucrative trades. The Berbers' fiercely independent spirit is also their Achilles' heel: unable to accept any form of authority including their own, countless Berber kingdoms rose and fell throughout Moroccan dynastic history.         

        The present day visitors can only catch a glimpse of a glorious past, as illustrated by the ruins of majestic Ksar (fort) dotted around the valleys and oasis, and walk in the almost mystical desert landscape which stretches beyond the limit of our imagination. 

Le Morocco 2013

Other posts related to this one:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2013/04/les-travels-mexico.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2013/02/les-travels-mayotte.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2012/05/kilimanjaro-club-member-le-huynh-native.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/06/les-travels-bolivia.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/03/les-despatches.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/10/pose-with-crocodile-i-pass.html

Le's travels: Mexico

I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro with Le Huynh in August 2008. He travels the world, and shares images and experiences of the places he visits. The latest post is of his visit to the pyramids of the Teotihuacan civilization of Central Mexico.

Dear friends, 

Long before the arrival of the famed Aztec warriors, there existed once a beacon
of technological might, the first great civilization in Central Mexico, a city with such magnificence in size and splendor of probably the largest pre-Hispanic empire: Teotihuacan. 

A graceful pyramid to the Moon

As early as 1st century A.D., the Teotihuacan Empire had already started to build the famous Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon. These monuments have no equal
throughout the American continent and rival those of Egypt. Even in our times, the
Pyramide del Sol is still the third largest pyramid in the world. Grid plan was laid out
for avenues, palaces and temples around these structures for what will become thegreatest city of Mesoamerica. 

Le enjoys the view from the top of the Sun Pyramid.

For centuries after its fall, Teotihuacan remained an important pilgrimage site for the Aztec rulers. It was an empire which ruled by tribute gathering rather than by
dominating occupation which helped to spread its advanced civilization such as
writing and calendar system. Many Teotihuacan Gods such as the feathered serpent
Quetzalcoatl (life and fertility) or Tlaloc (water and rain) were still being worshiped
by the Aztecs almost a thousand years later. 

The life and fertility god, Quetzalcoat.

It is a privilege for us today to be able to gaze in wonder at these ancient
relics from a distant culture, a window of our past and a rich heritage of humanity. 

Le

Posts related to this one:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2012/05/kilimanjaro-club-member-le-huynh-native.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2013/02/les-travels-mayotte.html

Le's travels: Mayotte

Kilimanjaro Club member Le Huynh, a native of Vietnam, is a globetrotter and has traveled to the farthest corners of Earth. He normally sends reports of his travels, this time from the French island territory of Mayotte.

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Dear friends,

For centuries, during the Age of Empire, the ancient Arab traders have long taken advantage of the katabatic wind, also known as the Trade wind, which blows from the Northeast in the Northern Hemisphere to cross the world's oceans in search of new economic opportunities. The Arab merchants have sailed along the East African coast and established many trading outposts for ivory, spices and (regretfully) slaves. The islands of Zanzibar were among the most famous throughout this period of Arab expansion.

Maki (local name): an endemic Lemur of Mayotte island

 A few even more daring Arab captains have continued southward and eventually landed on the Comoro islands,a group of islands in the Mozambique Channel in the Indian Ocean, about 300km North of Madagascar. Eventually,a system of prosperous city-states began to flourish under the rule of powerful Sultans who also brought with them Islam. One of these islands is the island of Mayotte.

The beaches in Mayotte are often lined with Baobab trees

For better or worse, the last Sultan Adriansouli, in order to seek protection from numerous enemies he made during the rise of his power, decided to form an accord ceding the island to France making Mayotte a French colony. Even more interesting, when the rest of the Comoro islands announced their independence, a large majority of Mayotte population voted to stay with France. It became an overseas department of France in March 2011.

So why go to Mayotte in the first place? Well, the most compelling reason is that tourists are almost non existent there :-) Those dashing few that deserted the well-trodden path of Madagascar are rewarded to be left alone on their quest of authentic flavors! This is nature at its unspoiled state with all its rough edges and wild life, especially a coral reef lagoon that can rival the best of any reef system in the world for its quality of pristine ecosystems.

Mayotte deserves to be on the list of UNESCO world heritage sites but then again, but I prefer not because if it ever happens, the tourists would be coming...

Le

Mayotte 2012

Posts related to this one:

http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/06/les-travels-bolivia.html

http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/03/les-despatches.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2012/05/kilimanjaro-club-member-le-huynh-native.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/10/pose-with-crocodile-i-pass.html

Kiroyera Campsite in Bukoba

When in Bukoba one of best locations for whiling the time away is the Kiroyera Campsite situated along the shores of Lake Victoria.

For those who prefer more traditional forms of accommodation there are traditional mshonge (grass) huts that remind the visitor of the older bullding traditions of Kagera.

Posts related to this one:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/11/my-version-of-year-2010-in-review.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/06/mary-kalikawe-and-william-rutta-reach_15.html

End of the Lake Victoria cruise

As the sun rises over the vast expanse of Lake Victoria, we are minutes from docking at Bukoba port after an overnight cruise from Mwanza.

Experts predict that if current environmental negative practices by humans living around Lake Vitoria remain unchecked, the lake will dry up in the future.

The irony is that future travelers between Mwanza and Bukoba might have the option of driving to and fro on a dry lake bed.

Sailing: Mwanza to Bukoba

Onboard MV Victoria.

I am on a night cruise on M.V. Victroria from Mwanza to Bukoba and am looking forward to some sound sleeping, courtesy of the gentle waves of Lake Victoria.

My version of the year 2012 in review: 13 December

The bedrooms of the Ikoma Wild Camp are characterised by unique decor.

The elevated dining area provides an excellent vantage point for viewing surrounding wild animals below.

I found out today that in the wild, lightning strikes more than once at the same place.

Not content with having stuck in the mud yesterday, our car was bogged down in mud again for the second time in so many days.

As we waited for the rescue truck to arrive from the Camp, the German film crew of Benjamin

Leers and Maurice Housni took out some of their cameras and began to shoot footage for their documentary, The Teacher's Country.

Other posts in this 2011 review series:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2012/09/my-version-of-year-2012-in-review-12.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2012/09/my-version-of-year-2011-in-review-18.html

My version of the year 2012 in review: 12 December

Maurice Housni wrapped up the photo session at the Highview Hotel in Karatu in the lobby of the

hotel. I had one of the best breakfasts at the hotel.

Before we left, we were asked to make our contribution against global warming; each one of us planted a tree.

It is time for Maurice to plant his tree.

Then, with his colleague Benjamin Leers, we began a game drive that took us through the

Zebras on the slopes of  the Ngorongoro Crater.

Wildebeest in the Ngorongoro Crater.

A large Elephant in the Serengeti National Park.

A Zebra in the Ngorongoro Crater made its own crossing in front of our car.

In the Ngongoro Crater a family of Warthogs ran away from an appraching Hyena.

In the Ngorongoro Crate a lioness approached the pride after an unsuccesful hunt.

The other lions looked up, noticed the lioness was approaching empty-handed, and continued with their siesta.

More Wildebeests in the Ngorongoro Crater.

The same Elephant from a different angle.

Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti National Park, where we saw most of the animals found in these two World Heritage sites.

There is a wide selection of books on the Ngorongoro and the Serengeti, including:

Ngorongoro by Reinhard Kunkel

Ngorongoro Conservation Area (Great Game Parks of Africa) by Daryl Balfour

The Beauty of Ngorongoro by author Graham Mercer and photographers Mohamed Amin and Duncan Willetts

Ngorongoro: the eighth wonder by Henry Fosbrooke

The Ngorongoro Story by Tom Lithgow & Hugo Lawick and photographer Hugo Van Lawick

The only blotch to the day was when a few kilometres before reaching our destination - Zara Tours Ikoma Wild Camp - our car was bogged down in mud.

However, it only took a while before a rescue vehicle arrived from the Camp and we were soon reunited with delicious meals and comfortable accommodation.

Other posts in this 2011 review series:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2012/09/my-version-of-year-2011-in-review-11.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2012/09/my-version-of-year-2012-in-review-13.html

My version of the year 2011 in review: 11 December

A day after completing the Mt. Kilimanjaro climb, I traveled by car with the German film crew of Benjamin Leers and Maurice Housni to Karatu, near the Ngorongoro Crater, where we stayed at the Highview Hotel, operated by Zara Tanzania Adventures.

The hotel is built on a hill and provides guests with a beautiful view of the valley below.

Benjamin and Maurice immediately set up their camera equipment to begin their photo shooting assignment for Zara Tanzania Adventures.

In the hotel lounge, Maurice began taking photos of some of the hotel's employees.

When the session ended the employees crowded around the digital camera to view their images.

Having just spent the past week in subfreezing temperatures in a tent with a sleeping bag on Mt. Kilimanjaro it was a welcome relief to spend quality time on a large comfortable bed.

Other posts in this 2011 review series:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2012/09/my-version-of-year-2011-in-review-10.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2012/09/my-version-of-year-2012-in-review-12.html

My version of the year 2011 in review: 19 November

My hosts in Dresden took me on a whistlestop tour of the city before my evening departure for Berlin and eventual return to Tanzania.

Unfortunately, I do not recall much of what was shown to me.

During the allied bombing campaign of Word War II more than ninety percent of Dresden's city centre was destroyed by bombs, including the Church of our Lady, above, which was rebuilt after the war.

The tour ended at the Semper Opera House, above right.

Other posts in this 2011 review series:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2012/09/my-version-of-year-2011-in-review-16.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2012/09/my-version-of-year-2011-in-review-23.html

Le's travels: Seychelles

Kilimanjaro Club member Le Huynh, a native of Vietnam, is a globetrotter and has traveled to the farthest corners of Earth. He normally sends reports of his travels, this time from Reunion in the Seychelles.

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Mentioning La Reunion to a non-French person and you'll either get a blank stare or something like "what meeting point are you talking about?" Be that as it may, La Reunion holds a special place in the heart of the Vietnamese for it was here that one of our emperors mysteriously met his tragic end.



Mafate: A UNESCO World Heritage site.

In 1907, emperor Duy Tan was only 7 years old when he became the 11th emperor of the Nguyen dynasty of Vietnam. Unwilling to live a life in luxury as a puppet emperor for the French, he tried to organize a rebellion to liberate his beloved country. Unfortunately he was betrayed and captured by the French authorities in 1916.

Since executing the young emperor would turn him into a martyr and spark a revolt, the French sent him into exile to the most remote corner of their empire: the island of La Reunion.




The green field of tamarind trees.

During World War II he joined the Free French Force to resist the Vichy Regime and became lieutenant-colonel under General Charles de Gaulle. It was said that General de Gaulle talked to Vin San, the ex-emperor about returning to Vietnam to reunite the country for possible independence (similar to Prince Sihanouk of Cambodia). Unfortunately his plane disappeared on his way home to Vietnam in 1945 and the great hopes of many died with him as the country once again was torn apart by a senseless war for the next 30 years.




Beautiful black sand from the volcano.

The first thing a visitor to Reunion will notice is how green it is: all kinds of shades of green undulating as far as the eye can see, lined up countless flowing angel hair waterfalls, accentuated from time to time vivid red or pink flowers...a multicolour diamond necklace glittering under the sun.




The highest point of Reunion (3,070m).

White clouds dot the horizon, moving leisurely across the sky, stopping here and there to visit the surrounding high peaks. Suddenly, a sweet yet delicate fragrance perfumes the air, stirring long dormant memories of one's youth as whole fields of frangipanier flowers came into view, revitalizing the already pure air with musky almost honey taste. A symphony of singing birds greets the visitor at the end of the day or early in the morning.




Le poses at one of the popular points on the Mafate trek.

Indeed, the best impressionistic tableau can only by painted by mother nature: no mortal artist can have access to such a palate of infinite shades of that colour of life. Surprisingly one is never saturated by so much stimuli to all of one's senses. On the contrary, your body and soul are soothed by a feeling of deep satisfaction as you relishingly immerse in such beautific surroundings, so much that you may never want to leave....

Posts related to this one:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/06/les-travels-bolivia.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/03/les-despatches.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/10/pose-with-crocodile-i-pass.html