Dmitry is now a member of the Kilimanjaro Club

The Kilimanjaro Club lists people I know who have scaled Mt. Kilimanjaro, including those who join me every year on the annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb, or those I met during a climb and am aware reached the summit.

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On my third climb of Mt. Kilimanjaro when I reached Stella Point at an altitude of 5,756m above sea level just after six in the morning, I met a climber from Russia, Dimitry. He should have been included in my Kilimanjaro Club list a long time ago.

In the photo Dimitry on the left with his guide, Frank, on the right and an assistant guide in the middle whose name I do not recall, with a good excuse: the park rangers on Mt. Kilimanjaro once told me that the freezing temperatures at the summit freeze the brain and memories.

The updated members’ list is:

1.   Markus Geiger

2.   Madaraka Nyerere

3.   Le Huynh

4.   Gerald Hando

5.   Notburger Maskini

6.   Jaffar Idi Amin

7.   Mary Kalikawe

8.   William Rutta

9.   Jim Becket

10. Andrea Wobmann

11. Steve Kamau

12. Jim Whitney

13. Dmitry

Big mountain, giant plants

Some of the plants on Mt. Kilimanjaro come in mountainous proportions. One of these is the dendrosenecio kilimanjari, a giant groundsel.

The Barranco valley on the approach to the Barranco camp from the Lava Tower has a large collection of these giant plants.

Another member of the Kilimanjaro Club, William Rutta

The Kilimanjaro Club lists people I know who have scaled Mt. Kilimanjaro, including those who join me every year on the annual the Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb.

Ever since he joined me for the annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb in 2010, William Rutta has shown keen interest to return to Mt. Kilimanjaro for another challenge.

William Rutta at Uhuru Peak.

He is the chairman of BUDAP an NGO based in Bukoba that provides assistance to the disabled by providing skills training to its members.

The updated membership list is:

1. Markus Geiger
2. Notburga Maskini
3. Gerald Hando
4. Le Huynh
5. Jaffar Amin
6. Mary Kalikawe
7. William Rutta

Mary Kalikawe, member, Kilimanjaro Club

The Kilimanjaro Club lists people I know who have scaled Mt. Kilimanjaro, including those who join me every year on the annual the Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb. 

Mary Kalikawe joined me on my third annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb in December 2010. She reached the summit on a day that had considerable snowfall.

Mary Kalikawe is the Managing Director of Kiroyera Consulting, a tourism company based in Bukoba which opened a branch office in Mwanza in 2010. She joined the 3^rd Annual Mwalimu Nyerere.

The updated Kilimanjaro Club list:

1. Markus Geiger
2. Notburga Maskini
3. Gerald Hando
4. Le Huynh
5. Jaffar Amin
6. Mary Kalikawe

Jaffar Amin is also in the Kilimanjaro Club

The Kilimanjaro Club lists people I know who have scaled Mt. Kilimanjaro, including those who join me every year on the annual the Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb.

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I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro with Jaffar Amin in December 2010. Our guides were Yahoo, Solomon and Ludovick.

During the 2010 climb: the team's cook, Pantaleo, poses with Jaffar Amin, seated, at Karanga Camp at 3,963m above sea level. Pantaleo decided the weather was ideal for having breakfast in the open.

The updated Kilimanjaro Club membership is:

1. Markus Geiger
2. Notburga Maskini
3. Gerald Hando
4. Le Huynh
5. Jaffar Amin

My version of the year 2010 in review - December

December 7, 2010
A day before the commencement of my annual charity event, the Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb, I held a press conference in Moshi to publiscize the event and, through the publicity, solicit donations from the general public.
 

At the press conference I, second left, was joined by Mary Kalikawe of Kiroyera Tours, Jaffar Amin, and William Rutta of Kiroyera Tours and BUDAP.

December 9, 2010
As Tanzanians elsewhere marked Tanzania's 49^th independence anniversary I
 

took a self portrait in my tent, enroute to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

December 12, 2010

On the way to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro, at Karanga camp, at 3,900m 

 

 above mean sea level I photographed what I consider to be one of my best shots of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

December 13, 2010
After a midnight to dawn trek we had reached Stella Point just before 6:00 AM on our way to the summit at that point about an hour's walk.

Freddie, on the right, guide to a Russian climber called Dmitry, posed with Kibo in the background as Solomon, my guide on the left, seemed to go into the Kilimanjaro shuffle.
 

At the summit, my guide Solomon, raised his hand in triumph. It was my third successful climb. It was his umptieth. The climber is always excited to get to the summit; the guides and porters are equally excited. Each successful climber tends to be generous with tipping the guides and porters.

December 15, 2011

It takes only a hot shower and a clean set of clothes to begin to forget the sometimes harsh conditions on Mt. Kilimanjaro. Back at Springlands Hotel in Moshi, the start and end point of the Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity

Climb, Jaffar Amin emerged with his clean set of clothes.
 

Later, I on the left and our guide Solomon, on the right, posed for a photograph with our sets of clean clothes.

December 25, 2010

On Christmas Day, at a gathering in Butiama, my jaw dropped when I saw this...
 

giant bottle of whiskey dwarf a bottle of beer. The whiskey did not last the day and I suspect one of the guests who seemed to speak louder than everyone else was responsible.

My visit to one beneficiary of last year's Kilimanjaro climb

During last year’s Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb, I was joined by Mary Kalikawe from Kiroyera Tours and William Rutta of the Bukoba Disabled Assistance Project (BUDAP), a Bukoba-based organization formed in 2005 to provide “…appropriate training and employment in the production of handicrafts and related products” for its members, who are predominantly victims of polio.

BUDAP’s products include traditional drums, and handbags made from traditional African khanga and kitenge cloth.

After the climb I visited Bukoba and BUDAP’s premises near the Bukoba airport. I met some of BUDAP’s members and shared with them stories (only true ones) of the adventures of climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro.

In the photograph, from left to right: Baraka, Ashirafu, Themistocles, the author of this post, and Elias.

If you wish to donate to BUDAP you can contact them through:

Bukoba Disabled Assistance Project (BUDAP)

P.O. Box 485

Bukoba - Tanzania.

www.budap.org

mailbudap@yahoo.com

Tel.+255713568276

Post related to this one:

http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/12/another-member-of-kilimanjaro-club.html

Mary Kalikawe and William Rutta reach the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro: post 4 of 4

Mary Kalikawe is the Managing Director of Kiroyera Consulting, a tourism company based in Bukoba which opened a branch office in Mwanza in 2010. She joined the 3^rd Annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb last year. This is the fourth of four posts of her experience, in her own words:

Mary Kalikawe

The guides are well-trained to handle climbers. Considering how tired they themselves are at that point, it is commendable how they keep up the words of encouragement with the sole aim of getting you to reach your ultimate goal, Uhuru Peak. The guide constantly talks to you out of falling asleep on the steep slopes telling you it is most dangerous and could be fatal.

Coming to the financial price of an individual climbing the mountain, I must say it is formidable challenge for ordinary Tanzanians to get the thrills of climbing Mt Kilimanjaro. Putting together my air fare from Mwanza, the fees paid to the tour operator, hotel and food in Moshi, tips and cost of mountain gear I come to a whooping 1 million shillings. Consider that this is for a Tanzanian who pays only a negligible rate of only Shs. 1,500 daily park fees to the Kilimanjaro National Park Authority. The rest is for the guides, porters for whom you have to have at least five, accommodation, food and transfers from Moshi to the mountain gate.

There are many ways of saying you reached the Summit. William Rutta sports a t-shirt with the message.

Kilimanjaro is not for the faint hearted nor is it for a Tanzanian with an average income. It is still early we are still requesting contributions to BUDAP and to Chief Wanzagi’s Girls school. Payments are to be made directly to the accounts of the two beneficiaries.

Account Name: BUDAP, Ac. No. 027201092625 Bank: National Bank of Commerce (NBC), Bukoba Branch, and to Chief Edward Wanzagi Girls’ Secondary School Ac. No. 030201191529, Bank: National Bank of Commerce (NBC), Musoma Branch.

Do make a donation if you can. It will go a long way towards meeting our fundraising goals for the Mwlimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climbing 2010.

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http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/06/mary-kalikawe-and-william-rutta-reach_15.html

Mary Kalikawe and William Rutta reach the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro: post 3 of 4

Mary Kalikawe is the Managing Director of Kiroyera Consulting, a tourism company based in Bukoba which opened a branch office in Mwanza in 2010. She joined the 3^rd Annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb last year. This is the third of four posts of her experience, in her own words:

Mary Kalikawe

Mount Kilimanjaro climbing was very haaard!! While Jaffar and Madaraka climbed on the Lemosho route, I and William used the Marangu route, the narrow heavily-trodden path between that goes through the Horombo and Mandara Huts. I had left the gruesome climb behind and felt pain in my legs and thighs but smelling ‘triumph’ and longing to tell the whole world about my success in reaching the almost “unreachable” Uhuru Peak at my age of beyond forty!

On the steep slopes during the night climb to the summit, the mountain guides and porters who had been with us during the climb on previous days hugged me to avert a fatal fall backwards on the steep slopes down the mountain. Their jackets stunk of sweat. Mind you, we had been without bathing for five days. I guess I too was not smelling of roses. We continued through the night and after seven hours of excessive endurance beyond what I could ever imagine was within my capability, we had reached Gilman's Point!

At Gilman's Point: One down, one to go.

Gilman’s Point is the first point on the peak that is 200m lower than Uhuru Peak, the highest point of Kilimanjaro and of the whole of Africa. From that point I still had another three hours of climbing to get to Uhuru Peak. Those who saw my slow pace did not believe I could come this far! Scores of people who began with us at midnight had turned back due to fatigue, bad weather, and sheer fear.

The question ‘why am I torturing?’ myself kept ringing in my head. There are many possible answers. For one thing, the panorama at Gilman's point is a reward worth exerting for. The glaciers in the foreground of the deep crater valleys, the snow covered rugged surfaces and, above all, the much needed cup of tea served by my mountain guide Deo were all energy infusing.

At this point I made the decision to reach Uhuru peak for enjoying the glory of it. The contributions to BUDAP and Chief Edward Wanzagi’s school did not demand that I get up to Uhuru Peak. Gilman’s point was a lot more than enough. But the guide, in disbelief, but seeing my renewed energy and enthusiasm to proceed said it will be an hour to Stella Point, two hours to Uhuru peak.

Finally, I reached Uhuru Peak, the highest point on the African continent.

I did it! And got a milliard accolades of congratulations but my guide was the brunt of a thousand complaints over factors he could not control: Why was the Uhuru peak signboard so far? Why do we still have to climb, didn’t you say we are almost there? And so on, and so forth.

William Rutta at the summit.

Next: Excellent guides, but forbidding cost

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http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/06/mary-kalikawe-and-william-rutta-reach_18.html

Mary Kalikawe and William Rutta reach the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro: post 2 of 4

Mary Kalikawe is the Managing Director of Kiroyera Consulting, a tourism company based in Bukoba which opened a branch office in Mwanza in 2010. She joined the 3^rd Annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb last year. This is the second of four posts of her experience, in her own words:

Mary Kalikawe

A day before the beginning of the gruesome climb, I and William Rutta, Chairman of BUDAP, met Madaraka and Tshombe Jaffar in Moshi at a press conference arranged to publicize the event. It was an uplifting feeling to be in the presence of these two great sons of Africa who are putting reconciliation ahead of a now forgotten bitter history.

At the press conference: L-R, Mary Kalikawe, Madaraka Nyerere, Jaffar Amin, and William Rutta.

Tshombe Jaffar, father of five children, now running a private business in Dubai is a flamboyant cheerful character. He is very dark like his father, tall and on the handsome side. He is a writer like Madaraka and has a keen interest in history, especially of his tribe and its legends. He talks of his youth and the many questions he used to ask his father. He tells of some harsh treatment he sometimes got from school from those who would dare not confront his father but found Tshombe’s then docile character a room to revenge. They pinched him for being a Moslem and for being the son of the ruling president. It made them happy, a little revenge that they got away with.

Coffee break after the press conference. L-R, William Rutta, Mary Kalikawe, and Jaffar Amin.

Tshombe Jaffar believes the exceptional fame in the two names of their respective fathers, Idd Amin Dada and that of Mwalimu Nyerere should be harnessed to draw development to the East African nations. Why should all the books and movies on his father go without any yield, he asks? Other clever people are earning big money on his name, he laments.

Next: Tackling Mt. Kilimanjaro

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http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/06/mary-kalikawe-and-william-rutta-reach_17.html

Mary Kalikawe and William Rutta reach the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro: post 1 of 4

Mary Kalikawe is the Managing Director of Kiroyera Consulting, a tourism company based in Bukoba which opened a branch office in Mwanza in 2010. She joined the 3^rd Annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb last year. This is the first of four posts of her experience, in her own words.

It all goes back to SNV, the Netherlands Development Organisation, linking people’s capacities and supporting the development of Tanzania’s tourism sector. During my assignment with SNV in the Lake Zone I got acquainted with the village of Butiama, the home and burial location of Tanzania’s founding president, the late Mwalimu Julius K. Nyerere. The objective of a meeting with tourism cultural stakeholders at Butiama was to contribute further to developing Butiama as a notable tourist historical site. During the visit, Madaraka Nyerere, who is one of the sons of the Late Mwalimu Nyerere, briefed me of his annual fundraising event – The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb. 

Elias, a member of BUDAP in Bukoba.

I indicated my interest to participate in the charity climb and we mutually agreed that Bukoba Disabled Assistance Project (BUDAP) should be a twin beneficiary, alongside the Chief Edward Wanzagi Girls’ Secondary School, as a beneficiary for the charity funds raised during the 2010 climb.

The author of this blog, second from right, with members of BUDAP. From left, Baraka, Ashirafu, Themistocles, and Elias at their Bukoba premises.

Kiroyera encouraged the formation of BUDAP some 6 years ago with the idea that tourism could be helpful in creating jobs for polio victims of Bukoba who were roaming the streets begging. BUDAP’s members produce African drums, dolls, handbags and other souvenirs that are sold to tourists, and the local community. BUDAP is a model of pro poor tourism.

William Rutta (left) BUDAP's Chairman with me at BUDAP's premises in Bukoba.

I decided that Madaraka was not going to do the 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb alone. In recent years he has developed a friendship with Tshombe Jaffar Remo Amin, the son of the late Idi Amin Dada, former ruler of Uganda.

More than 30 years ago, Tanzania went to war against Uganda while their fathers were the respective leaders of the two countries. The war left many tragedies in both countries. To Ugandans Tanzanians are liberators who ended Idi Amin’s reign.

Next: We meet Jaffar Amin

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http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/06/mary-kalikawe-and-william-rutta-reach_16.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 12 of 12)

Next to reaching the summit, the most satisfying part of the climb is receiving the certificates for climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro. The honour for handing over the certificates rests with the people who led us to the peak and back to comfort of Springlands Hotel, where the expedition began.

First in line was Jaffar (left) receiving his certificate issued by the Kilimanjaro National Parks Authority (KINAPA), handed to him by Solomon (right)

Then Ludovik (right) stepped in front of the camera to hand over Zara Tanzania Adventures' certificate to Jaffar (left)

Moments later, it was my turn (left) to receive my KINAPA certificate from Solomon (right)

And finally, Ludovick (right) stepped in view again to handover my certificate from Zara Tanzania Adventures.

We received two sets of certificates each, one issued by the Kilimanjaro National Parks Authority (KINAPA) and another issued by Zara Tanzania Adventures, the company that organizes the Kilimanjaro climbs.

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The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 11 of 12)

This is the eleventh of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Sunday 13 December 2010

Unlike last year, this year we were the first group out of Barafu Camp, having left at around 2330hrs.

On the climb we had a breathtaking view of the lights of Moshi down below on a cloudless night. The climb from Barafu Camp to Stella Point on the crater rim remains the more difficult section of the Kilimanjaro climb and there are probably more people who fail on the Barafu – Stella Point climb then in all other sections.

Sometime during the climb, I told Solomon that I experienced great difficulty caused by the frequent stops that we make and suggested I walk ahead but Solomon said it was best to stay together because that would be discouraging to Jaffar. I stayed behind reluctantly but suffered tremendously. I liken the difficulty I faced in resuming the trek after each rest to that of a heavily laden truck that is stopped on a slope and has to be driven uphill. A small car that starts from the same position has little difficulty surging forward. I was the big truck, the others were sedans.

Eventually at some point Solomon decided that I should walk ahead with him and Jaffar and assistant guide, Ludovick, remained behind at a slower pace. We reached Stella Point at 0600hrs as the sun was about to rise from the eastern horizon behind Mawenzi. We reached the spot with a Russian climber, Dimitry, and his guide, Freddy.
 



L-R, Freddy, an unidentified guide, and Dimitry at Stella Point, just before sunrise.

We reached Uhuru Peak at 0715hrs with a woman and his Tanzanian guide.  I quickly took some photos with Solomon and he left to meet Jaffar and Ludovick. I continued taking some photos as the



The author of this blog shaking hands with Solomon (right) at the summit.

other climber and her guide left the peak. Suddenly I was alone on the peak on a beautiful morning, an experience I did not like one bit. Man is indisputably the most dangerous animal on the planet. So, presumably everyone feels safer alone.  Surprisingly, that is not the case. A human being left alone imagines all types and manners of threats that can threaten his/her existence. I felt that.

But until I would meet other humans that morning, I had set a world record as the person who was located on the highest point of the African continent, a record that stood for at least 43 minutes. 

I began walking quickly towards Stella Point to try and catch up with the two who had left previously. Before reaching Stella Point I met Jaffar, led by Ludovick and tailed by Solomon, slowly making their way towards Uhuru peak. My world record moment was over.



L-R, Ludovick, Jaffar, and Solomon slowly making their way towards Uhuru Peak



As they made their ways towards the peak, Solomon (right) gestures as Jaffar watches. Mt. Meru is in the background.



Jaffar and Solomon pause as they ponder the last stretch towards Uhuru Peak, seen ahead at the topmost point.

At the summit, Jaffar (left), and Solomon.

We parted and I slowly made my way to Stella Point and all the way down to Barafu Camp. Midway, in mid morning, I met with the Tusker Group leading David Shoop to the peak.
 



Barafu camp

After lunch and a rest at Barafu where Jaffar, Solomon, and Ludovick arrived later, we left for the long trek past Millennium High Camp and a night rest at Mweka Camp. The current news: Musician Remmy Ongala has died.

Next: The final day

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http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/06/mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro-charity_09.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 10 of 12)

This is the tenth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Saturday 11 December 2010

At around 0500hrs I was awoken to what I thought was someone walking to the toilet. The noise first sounded like the shuffle of feet of someone dragging himself to the toilet, but then the noise grew into a constant rumble that seemed to gain both intensity and proximity to the camp. I found out later in the morning that what I heard was a landslide that had dislodged large boulders that careered down the face of the mountain and into a valley that was some distance from Karanga camp.

One of the porters, speaking to his colleagues in the morning, said he also heard the rumbling and was only waiting for the boulders to strike the tent ropes so he would attempt to escape. That would have been too late, I thought.

The view of the mountain from Karanga camp this morning is breathtaking. The sun shone brightly and for the first time since we began the climb, we had breakfast outside the tent.

Jaffar (seated) has breakfast, while the team's cook, Pantaleo, poses for the photo. I had never seen Mt. Kilimanjaro with so much snow cover.

I have discovered that I cannot handle frequent stops, because each time I resume walking from a rest, particularly when the walk resumes with an uphill walk, my heart seems to experience tremendous stress before the heartbeats return to a tolerable pace. I therefore told Solomon (who

The porters walk past Solomon (second from left) and Jaffar (third from left) during the initial stages of the walk from Karanga to Barafu camps.

took up the lead position as guide) and Jaffar that I would walk ahead. With fewer rests I opened up a large gap until they disappeared behind the mist and I trudged along alone, occasionally meeting other porters and climbers.

Alone, but with a camera, I pose for a rest and to took my own photograph before walking down the final valley before the steep climb to Barafu camp.

It was a repeat of last year, when I walked ahead of Yahoo, Notburga Maskini, and Gerald Hando on the same stretch between Karanga and Barafu camps. This time I was careful not to over exert myself as I did last year, later to suffer from fatigue during the final assault towards Uhuru peak.

On arrival at Barafu Camp I was told the American climber, who later introduced himself as David Shoop, was interested to meet us and had invited Jaffar and I for lunch. It was during that lunch that David had admitted that when Jaffar mentioned the reconciliation concerning Idi Amin and Julius Nyerere, he had not taken Jaffar’s words seriously. I assume he thought Jaffar was suffering from mountain sickness.

One can hardly blame him. For anyone aware of the war between Uganda and Tanzania what are the odds of climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro and bumping into the sons of Idi Amin and Julius Nyerere climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro together?

I had earlier in the day told Jaffar that word gets around on MT. Kilimanjaro quite fast and by the time we complete the climb, news of his presence will have reached far and wide. That news had finally reached David Shoop only hours later. David interviewed us for a Californian periodical which he said could provide much needed publicity for the charity cause we were promoting.



After lunch and the interview. From L-R, I, Jaffar, and David Shoop. Our guide, Solomon, standing behind us.

After lunch we retired to our tents for a few hours' rest before rising at around 2200hrs for dinner and departure for the summit.

There is normally a nervous moment I keep experiencing each time we leave Barafu Camp for the all-night trek towards the summit. It happened again this time, and I had to ask Solomon and Jaffar to walk ahead as I kept on adjusting clothing that somehow seemed not to fit me well.

Next: To the summit

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The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 9 of 12)

This is the ninth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Friday 10 December 2010

We woke to sad news. As we were having breakfast Yahoo, as usual, came to ask how we were doing. Then, apparently content that we felt fine, told us his mother had died. He said he had to turn back towards Moshi.

Yahoo explained he had nominated two of the crew – Solomon and Ludovick – to lead us for the remainder of the climb.

It was tragic. I imagined how Yahoo would cope. He said his mother had not been ill and was in her fifties. I later learnt she is from Songea, in southern Tanzania.

Later, I worried how we would cope with his replacement, Solomon. But surprisingly, with Jaffar’s profound ability to engage anyone in endless conversation, the rapport with Solomon turned out to be excellent. On our trek to Barranco camp, we walked continuously under the rain, which I found extremely inconvenient. The bonus was, because it was cloudy and foggy, we did not see far ahead of our steep climb towards Lava Tower, the most testing section of today’s trek. I have learnt from experience that what you don’t see during a climb does not intimidate you.

At a certain point after a brief clearing of the fog, I saw the distinct silhouette of Lava Tower, only a short climb away from a stream where Jaffar had asked to take a break. After he said he felt dizzy I suggested he was not drinking enough water and could have been suffering from dehydration. It turned out I was right because in the next days he drank more water and did not experience any dizziness.

I notice a big difference between Jaffar on the ascent and one on a descent.* The former speaks little; the latter has endless stories to tell. Characteristically, I am left behind on descents; my forte, I have discovered, is during climbs.

*Climbing most mountains, particularly while heading towards the summit, involves both climbs and descents across valleys and ridges.

Next: The breakfast climb

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The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 8 of 12)

This is the eighth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Thursday 9 December 2010
Jaffar is in good spirits which, without argument, is the best tool for conquering Kilimanjaro.

When I got out of my tent, I caught a glimpse of Kibo peak, our destination. Kibo has an unusually large quantity of snow cover. I estimated the snow cover, in some sections, was as low as 4,000m. If there is a bonus for climbing during the rainy season, the extra snow cover (also seen on Kilimanjaro’s other peak, Mawenzi, on December 6) has to be it.

As with the past climbs, our group remains the slowest; we maintain a slow but steady pace. The other important principle of climbing Kilimanjaro is taking matters as slowly as possible to conserve much-needed energy for the difficult sections, advice that is especially important for novice climbers.

There is little to write about today except that it is Tanzania’s 49^th independence anniversary commemorations. On TBC radio, the public broadcaster, a primary school student was interviewed and asked what he remembered of Tanzania’s history.

“Vita vya Kagera.” [The Kagera War – the 1978-79 war between Tanzania and Uganda]

 “Vilikuwa mwaka gani?” [When was the war fought?]

“Sikumbuki…” [I don’t remember]

“Vilikuwa mwaka ‘78 na ’79. Unakumbuka chanzo cha vita hivyo?” [They were in ’78 and ’79. Do you remember the cause of the war?]

“Idi Amin alikuwa mkolofi. Sasa Nyelele alikuwa hapendi ukolofi, ndiyo ikabidi wapigane.” [Idi Amin was a troublesome person. Nyerere did not like trouble, so they had to fight].
 



In my tent, after the hike from Shira 1 to Shira 2 camp where I tuned in to the radio broadcast on Tanzania's 49th commemorations of its independence.

Ever since Jaffar’s first visit to Tanzania, I have consistently avoided dwelling on the past and attempted to focus on the future, but history has a habit of cropping up unexpectedly, even on a Kilimanjaro climb with Jaffar Amin!

Also on the radio today was a rebroadcast of Lt. Alex Nyirenda’s live broadcast from Uhuru Peak on the eve of Independence, 49 years ago.

Next: Tragic news from Moshi.

Posts related to this one:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/03/mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro-charity.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/05/mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro-charity_31.html 

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 7 of 12)

This is the seventh of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Wednesday 8 December 2010
The second day on the Lemosho route includes a prolonged climb, particularly at a section called the Seven Hills. Before the descent to Shira 1 Camp, I began to worry that, perhaps, this will be the day that I would regret not having adequately prepared myself for this year's climb.



Jaffar Amin, left, takes a break with Yahoo our mountain guide during the Seven Hills climb

Last year Yahoo, our mountain guide, had suggested that I buy a mountain bike to ride prior to climbs for strengthening my leg and thigh muscles. I bought the bike promptly, but I rode it only for several days then resorted to my normal ill-exercised self and this is how I am facing Mt. Kilimanjaro this year.

Jaffar, always adept at engaging any stranger in conversation, kept talking to three climbers, one of whom was a Canadian and another, an American. They were climbing with a Tusker team. At a certain point, one of them asked:

"So you are climbing for a charity?"
"Yes," Jaffar responded.
"Which charity?"

I explained that it was not for a particular charity, that we were raising money for a school, and a group of disabled persons.

Jaffar added: "We are also doing a reconciliation of the past, our fathers were the former leaders of Uganda..."
"Who is your father?"
"Mine, Idi Amin; his, Julius Nyerere."

To which the American replied, "That's a good one." And they walked past us as we continued with our short rest.

I had the impression that the other climber did not believe Jaffar's last response. I found out later that I was right.

Next: Snowfall on Kilimanjaro.

Posts related to this one:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/01/mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro-charity_31.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/05/mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro-charity.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 6 of 12)

This is the sixth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.

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Tuesday 7 December, 2010
Rather appropriate for the ocassion, I had a mountain of tasks to complete in the morning. Yesterday, I failed to log on to the Internet and I thought the system was down. In reality, I found out this morning, I had run out of credit. There were three urgent tasks I had to complete before embarking for the 3rd annual Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb:

• email photos of yesterday's press conference to journalists
• file next week's article for my weekly newspaper column
• email parts photos to equipment manufacturer Hydraform 

I somehow managed and rushed to have breakfast before the restaurant closed. I probably was the last customer to have breakfast. By the time I took my shower Jaffar, Yahoo, our guide, and Ludovick, one of the porters, were already waiting for me in the car.

Jaffar is in good spirits, which is an extremely important character trait ahead of any Kilimanjaro climb. Before we boarded the car he called everyone who was near the car - there were about 15 porters waiting for other clients - and insisted we take a photo together in front of the Land Rover.



Find the Land Rover, if you can. Porters join us for a photo in front of the Land Rover that is completely obstructed from view. Zara's Springlands Hotel at Moshi is an extremely busy location and the starting point for Mt. Kilimanjaro climbs. At any one time there are several climbers leaving for Mt. Kilimanjaro through various routes. The porters normally gather each morning at the hotel for the daily departures.

We made our first stop at an equipment rental shop, Gladys Adventure & Safaris to hire extra gear we could not obtain at Zara Tanzania Adventure's Springlands Hotel. Yahoo explained later that a group of over fifty Australian students who were also climbing the mountain, and who were particularly vociferous at night, had depleted Zara's mountain climbing equipment.

When we stopped at the supermarket on the Moshi - Arusha road, one of two policemen on patrol recognized me and later told me he is from Butiama. Later they recognized Jaffar and from their excitement I thought they would have asked for an autograph. They did not.



L-R, the author of this post, Jaffar Amin, and Yahoo, out experienced mountain guide.

It has been raining since yesterday morning and, consequently, the road from Londorossi Gate to the drop-off point at the edge of the forest was so rough and treacherous that we were dropped about 30 minutes' walk from the normal departure point, which we reached at 1600hrs.

Before today, I imagined trekking in the rain presented no extra challenges. I was wrong. The slopes are slippery and physically testing, both on ascents and descents.

Because it was overcast, darkness came quickly and I was the only one who carried a head torch. I had the extra task not only of lighting the path ahead of Yahoo, our guide, but also for Jaffar, in the middle. Furthermore, I also had to light up my own path. It was a case of swinging up for Yahoo, midway for Jaffar, and down at my feet.

At Mti Mkubwa camp I thought I heard Jaffar groaning in pain in his tent, and I feared this year's climb might end early. I was mistaken, because at dinner he seemed fine.

Next: The Seven Hills challenge.

Posts related to this one:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/01/mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro-charity_18.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/03/mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro-charity.html

Elifariji Lima donates Sh.1.5 million to the recent Kilimanjaro charity climb

Mr. Elifariji Lima has donated a total of Sh.1,500,000/- to the recently concluded Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb. Of the amount, one million shillings goes to the Chief Edward Wanzagi Girls' Secondary School and Shs.500,000/- goes to Bukoba Disabled Assistance Group (Budap).



A woman offloads part of the consignment of cement donated by Elifariji Lima after the 2008 Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb

Mr. Lima also donated cement for construction of students' dormitories following the first Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb in 2008.

Current donors to Chief Edward Wanzagi Girls' Secondary School (CEWGSS):
1. Tanzania Gatsby Trust - Shs.500,000/-
2. Dina Mrango - Shs.100,000/-
3. Notburga Maskini - Shs.100,000/-
4. Elifariji K. Lima - Shs.1,000,000/-

Current donors to Budap:

1. Notburga Maskini - Shs.100,000/-
2. Elifariji K. Lima - Shs.500,000/-

Total donations to CEWGSS: Shs.1,700,000/-
Total donations to Budap: Shs.600,000/-

If you wish to donate, please follow the instructions on the following link:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/12/jaffar-amin-has-arrived-in-moshi-for.html

Posts related to this one:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/12/jaffar-amin-and-i-reach-top-of-mt.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/12/mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro-charity.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2010/12/first-donation-to-this-years-mwalimu.html

The Mwalimu Nyerere/Mt. Kilimanjaro Charity Climb 2010 (post 5 of 12)

This is the fifth of twelve posts on the December 2010 Mt. Kilimanjaro climb. 

 

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Monday 6 December, 2010
The two other members on this year's climb, Mary Kalikawe of Kiroyera Tours and William Rutta of Bukoba Disabled Assistance Group (Budap), who arrived from Arusha today, joined me and Jaffar Amin at Kahawa House for a press conference to publicize the climb. I did not see the articles that emerged from the press conference although someone mentioned seeing the news reports.



After the press conference at Kahawa House, L-R, Mary Kalikawe, Madaraka Nyerere, Jaffar Amin, and William Rutta

After the press conference we crossed over to the open cafe' opposite Kahawa House for coffee and later dispersed. Mary and William begin their climb tomorrow on the 6-day Marangu route while Jaffar and I will embark on the Lemosho 8-day route. I asked them to check their handset in boxes for text messages so that we could communicate during the climb.

Next: The first day of the climb. 

Posts related to this one:
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/01/mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro-charity_13.html
http://madarakanyerere.blogspot.com/2011/01/mwalimu-nyereremt-kilimanjaro-charity_31.html